Mikayla Journee

Phnom Tamao Wildlife Park

South of Phnom Penh is the Phnom Tamao Wildlife Park, which is a sanctuary for a vast array of animals that have been rescued from poachers, breeding farms or abusive owners. Wherever possible, the sanctuary releases animals back into the wild.

 

We got to tickle the most beautiful gibbon, called Cataract (because she had one) and her baby. We had a chat with some birds, fed bananas and coconuts to elephants, watched a Sun Bear eat its own poo, and pissed off a crocodile and macaque (whoops).

 

It was a great day, which we did as a tour with Betelnut tours (and it was totally worth it because it meant we got to get up close and personal with the animals where we otherwise wouldn't have). It ended up being just us with our guide, which was totally dreamboat as we got to hang out at our own pace with some beautiful (and not so beautiful, ie. pythons) creatures. The hammock flopping lunch wasn't too bloody shabby either! A joyous day near the end of our trip!

 

Photos by Ben Journee

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Cataract holding her baby (she pulled Mikayla's hand to her head for a scratch).

Cataract holding her baby (she pulled Mikayla's hand to her head for a scratch).

Cataract's poorly mended broken finger

Cataract's poorly mended broken finger

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Lucky the Elephant

Lucky the Elephant

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Fish Amok and Papaya Salad

Fish Amok

 

  • Ingredients

- Amok leaf (or Chinese broccoli leaf) ................. 2 pcs stem removed, rolled and cut thinly 
- Oyster Mushroom ................. 100g pick apart into thin strips
- ¼ Onion .................  sliced
- Amok paste ................. 2 tablespoons
- Fish ................. 200g finely sliced
- Coconut milk ................. 4 tablespoons
- Sugar ................. 1 teaspoons
- Salt ................. a pinch
- Fish sauce ................. 1 teaspoons

Amok Paste:
- Lemon grass ................. 1 cut thin
- Turmeric ................. 1 thumb, remove skin and cut thin (you might want plastic gloves for skinning and cutting turmeric, otherwise, you can use turmeric powder)
Finger root (or ginger) .................  2 thumbs, remove skin and cut thin
- Shallot ................. 1 pcs cut thin
- Garlic ................. 2 pcs cut thin
- Chilli  ................. as desired, cut thin

Grind ingredients in mortar and pestle until they form a paste

  • To Cook:

Heat the coconut milk in a pan and put in amok paste, sugar and fish sauce and fry until brown

Add fish and mushroom, onion, amok (or broccoli) leaf, 1 ladle of coconut milk, ½ spoon of chicken stock powder, 1 spoon of fish sauce - it will not take long to cook and you don't want to overcook your fish!

Taste for spicy (chilli), salty (stock or fish sauce), sweet (sugar) and sour (lime) and add accordingly

Serve hot with steamed white rice

 

Papaya Salad

 

  • Ingredients

- Green papaya ................. ¼ peeled and grated
- Small carrot................. ½ peeled and grated
- Tomato................. 1pcs cut into wedges
- Hot (Birdseye) Chilli................. 1pcs or as desired
- Sweet Basil ................. 25g
- Shrimp paste ................. 1 teaspoon
- Chili sauce ................. 1 tablespoon
- Snake beans ................. small handful, clean and chop ends 
- Sugar ................. ½ teaspoon 
- Lemon Juice ................. 1pcs 
- Roasted peanut ................. 2 tablespoons
- Tomato ketchup (Heinz not Watties) ................. 1 spoon 

  • To Cook:

Combine the sugar, chilli, tomato sauce, chilli sauce, lemon juice, shrimp paste in the mortar

Add grated papaya, carrot, tomato, bean, roast peanut, basil, and combine gently. 

Serve fresh and enjoy soon after making

 

Photos by Ben Journee
 

Our day began with a short visit to the market:

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And then we cooked!

Ingredients for papaya salad

Ingredients for papaya salad

Grated papaya and carrot

Grated papaya and carrot

Amok leaf, oyster mushroom and onion for Fish Amok

Amok leaf, oyster mushroom and onion for Fish Amok

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Mikayla and our teacher, Savon 

Mikayla and our teacher, Savon 

Amok paste ingredients ready for the mortar: chilli, turmeric, finger root, garlic, lemongrass and shallot

Amok paste ingredients ready for the mortar: chilli, turmeric, finger root, garlic, lemongrass and shallot

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Combining papaya salad ingredients

Combining papaya salad ingredients

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Fish Amok cooking (this all happens very fast!)

Fish Amok cooking (this all happens very fast!)

Voila! Papaya Salad

Voila! Papaya Salad

And the stunning Fish Amok. Bon Appetit!

And the stunning Fish Amok. Bon Appetit!

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Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge

There is a real discomfort in writing this blog and sharing these photos. Learning about Pol Pot and his Khmer Rouge regime, and visiting the hallowed sites of Choeung Ek ‘Killing Fields’ and Tuol Sleng (S.21) prison was something that we felt obliged to do. You don’t really look forward to it, but you feel you must, to pay respect and homage to victims, and indeed to pay respect and homage to those who live everyday with their memories of this horrific period in Cambodia’s history. 

 

 

Before he was Pol Pot, he was Saloth Sar. Born in 1925, in Kampong Thom Province, son to a considerably wealthy, land-owning, rice farmer and eighth of nine children. At the age of 20 he moved to Paris on a scholarship to study radio electronics, however he neglected his studies when he joined the Cercle Marxiste (Marxist Circle) that had taken over the Khmer Students Association, and indeed captivated the impressionable young man and his peers. 

He returned to Cambodia in 1953, after losing his scholarship, and joined an underground communist movement whilst teaching French literature and history at a private school, an incredible irony considering teachers were amongst those targeted under his leadership.

 

In 1962, Sar became the acting leader of the Cambodian Communist Party but soon after was driven into hiding in the jungle near the Vietnamese border by Prince Norodom Sihanouk. It was during this time that Sar formed his armed resistance movement, the Khmer Rouge (Red Khmers/Cambodians). The colour red was invoked as a symbol of communism.

His road to power began in 1970, when Sihanouk was removed as head of state after he ordered anti-Vietnamese protests that spun out of control, and his followers were found to be involved in clandestine operations. After his removal from government, the North Vietnamese convinced Sihanouk to support the Khmer Rouge, which he did actively, and they also offered Saloth Sar (Pol Pot) whatever resources he required for his insurgency against the Cambodian government. 

In the period that followed, the North Vietnamese (Viet Minh) and the rebel group in South Vietnam (Viet Cong) undertook most of the fighting against the Cambodian government. Sar took this opportunity, not only to instill his principles of Cambodian self-sufficiency, but also to gather and indoctrinate new recruits into his army. These new recruits were peasant class youths (the poorer, and by extension, less educated and more easily inculcated, the better). By 1973, Sar already controlled two thirds of the country and half the population. He had began reorganising peasant villages into cooperatives, evacuating cities to the countryside and importing 5 million dollars a year worth of weapons from China, funded by slave-labour run rubber plantations in the north of the country. 

 

On April 17, 1975 the Khmer Rouge army, primarily made up of teenage peasant guerrillas, marched into Phnom Penh to begin a mass evacuation of all its citizens to the countryside. Saloth Sar renamed himself ‘brother number one’ with the pseudonym of Pol Pot.

 

Thus began the 4 year rule of Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge, and indeed also began the unfathomable horror that was inflicted upon Cambodia.

 

The country was renamed the Democratic Republic of Kampuchea, and became somewhat of an experiment, informed by Mao Zedong’s Cultural Revolution, in extremist agrarian socialism. Year 0 was announced, and society began to be ‘purified’.

Money was quickly removed from circulation, businesses were closed, media was shut down, as were means of communication including mail services, telephone and even the ownership of bicycles. Foreigners were expelled, and foreign languages ousted, foreign economic and medical assistance was also denied. Education was halted, religions were banned, health care eliminated and parental authority curtailed. 

Two million inhabitants of Phnom Penh were sent, on foot, to the countryside, with some 20,000 dying along with way. Everyone was forced into slave labour on collective farms and projects. Pol Pot demanded that the national rice yield be tripled immediately, which of course, was an impossible demand to meet. And though the crop output and exports were enormous, Cambodians starved. A work day was 18 hours long, with only two rest periods, and workers were expected to survive on two meals of rice soup (but the grains of rice were so few one could count the number of them in one’s bowl). 

All remnants of ‘old society’ were destroyed, and many of those imprisoned, tortured and executed were the educated, wealthy, police, lawyers, teachers, former officials and soldiers, and even buddhist monks or other religious figures. 

 

Through the combined efforts of executions, forced labour, malnutrition and virtually no healthcare, 25% of the Cambodian population perished. The exact numbers are not known, but the best estimate, is some 2.2 million people. 

 

Photos by Ben Journee

Choeung Ek (Killing Fields)

The most well known of the 300 killing fields across Cambodia is Choeung Ek, and the memorial site is now marked with a massive stupa that houses the remains, mostly skulls, of 5,000 victims that were executed at this site, many of which arrived in truck loads from Tuol Sleng prison. 

Choeung Ek Memorial Stupa

Choeung Ek Memorial Stupa

Looking up, inside the memorial stupa

Looking up, inside the memorial stupa

Those killed at Choeung Ek were usually bludgeoned and hacked to their deaths because bullets were ordered not be wasted, and this style of execution creates a thicker atmosphere and has a more stomach churning effect, than other occasions of mass murder that live in our consciousness. 

Some 8,895 bodies were discovered in mass graves after the fall of the Khmer Rouge, and the site still harbours the remains of many more victims, which, as of 2005, are not allowed to be disturbed. Mass graves from which bodies were exhumed are now cordoned off by low bamboo fences, the stakes of which have been heavily adorned with cotton bracelets left by visitors who leave them as offerings to pay their respects. My own, fluorescent pink bracelet, which I acquired at Angkor Wat, hangs with the others. 

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Glass boxes are stationed around the site, some housing recently found bone fragments and teeth that come to the surface of the earth after the monsoon. Other boxes are full of clothing items (many child sized) that have also been found by staff after the annual rains. 

The most horrific of all spots for us, and I’m sure for most, was the killing tree. Unbearable to face, it was upon the tree that executioners shattered infants and children to death.

It was a heartbreaking moment to see a mother and her young, playing daughter, no older than the children who were killed at this site, walk past the tree right in front of us, merely 34 years after the fall of the Khmer Rouge.

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Tuol Sleng (S.21)

Tuol Sleng was a former primary and high school that was converted into Office S.21 in 1975, when the Khmer Rouge took Phnom Penh. It was designed for the detention, interrogation, torture, confession under duress and execution of those accused of opposing the regime.

Like the Nazis, their record keeping was impeccable. And the hallways are now lined with literally countless faces, recorded in black and white, which were photographed upon their arrival. Room after room is filled with their restless spirits. 

14 victim corpses were found at the prison when the regime fell in 1979, the last who were imprisoned and tortured there before the prison was abandoned. These souls are buried in the courtyard, outside building A, under white headstones, as a constant and pressing presence. 

The classrooms were converted into cell blocks, with each cell measuring only 2m long by 0.8m wide. They are haphazardly arranged in brick and mortar, and the claustrophobia presses itself on your lungs as you walk down the aisle between the two rows of cells, which are oppressively and horrifyingly small. 

Records reveal that in 1975, Tuol Sleng held 154 prisoners. In 1976 there were 2,250. In ’97, 2,350 and in 1978 there were 5,765 victims held at S.21.

 

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These were spaces used for the detention of Khmer Rouge personnel who were accused of sedition against the regime. The main cells are too small to fit one of these beds inside.

These were spaces used for the detention of Khmer Rouge personnel who were accused of sedition against the regime. The main cells are too small to fit one of these beds inside.

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One of the things that is hardest to stomach for me, is that the horrors inflicted during this time are still so unresolved, and one can truly sense that the spirits of those who have perished have not been able to rest, nor have those that have lived through the regime been allowed to put that history behind them. 

It was only in 1997 that a tribunal was established to set up trial proceedings for senior members of the Khmer Rouge. But it wasn’t until 2006 that judges were sworn in and the trials are still in progress to this day. Many of the regime’s leaders have already died from natural causes in their old age.

 

 

Pol Pot lived to the age of 72, on the northern border between Cambodia and Thailand, where he fled after the Vietnamese invaded Cambodia and installed a new government run by Khmer Rouge defectors. 

Pol Pot continued to command the Khmer Rouge, essentially up until his death. The Khmer Rouge even received some funding from the UN and was still recognised internationally as the rightful government of Cambodia until the 90s. They were still able to receive weapons from China, and skin crawlingly, the Thai army made money from these imports.

Eventually, Pol Pot was sentenced to house arrest by a former Khmer Rouge colleague that had control over a faction of the old party. He was never given a formal trial (only a mock one which he wasn’t present for in the early 80s), and died in his bed after the Khmer Rouge had agreed to hand him over to an international tribunal. Whether this was by heart failure, or suicide, or poisoned (which have been consistent rumours), we will never know as he was quickly cremated before the body could be inspected by the government. 

 

 

Together, Choeung Ek and Tuol Sleng are the most restless, unresolved and painful sites we’ve ever visited and experienced. The spirits and faces of those who perished at these sites are now ingrained in our psyches, and it is nearly impossible to imagine how the people who suffered through the regime have managed to craft a new life for themselves. And yet, they have. 

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Angkor Wat (City of Temples)

Sunrise over Angkor Wat

Sunrise over Angkor Wat

Majestic relics of the Khmer kingdom’s civilization, in the form of countless stone temples and hydraulic systems (such as canals, dykes and reservoirs), spread across some 400 sq km of Cambodia’s northern, Siem Reap, province.  These monuments are remnants of a glorious past, and the immense Khmer empire that stretched over much of the South East Asian peninsula, from Myanmar to Vietnam.

 

It was Jayavarman II who unified the two states that covered modern day Cambodia in the 9th century, and lay the foundations for the Khmer empire which would be the major power of South East Asia for the next five centuries. 

 

Angkor became a World Heritage site in 1992, at the same time that it was also acknowledged as a World Heritage in Danger, after a destructive period of pillaging, illegal excavations and land mines. UNESCO launched an international restoration campaign in 1993, and in 2004, within ten years, it had been removed from this endangered sites list. 

 

The jungle surrounding Angkor is essentially a store of archeological remains, and in some cases the jungle has taken claim over the stone structures, making them seem far more ancient than they are, and incredibly magical to wander through and get lost in.

 

Photos by Ben Journee

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Banteay Srey

In 1923, Banteay Srey was looted by a bankrupt, French writer and Asian art connoisseur called Andre Malraux. With his wife and friend, he masqueraded as an official archeologist and stole sections of the temple’s, now renowned, bas reliefs. After this, attention was given to the temple, and a clearing campaign begun. 

 

The largely red sandstone, and highly decorated, temple was built in the 10th century by a courtier and counselor to King Rajendravarman II. The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva, and the name itself means ‘citadel of the women’, perhaps because of the small proportions of the structure and the highly detailed and refined embellishments carved into the stone. The other, less romantic, theory of the name's origin is that there had been a phonetic transformation over time from Banteay Sri (meaning ‘auspicious city’) to Banteay Srey (‘city of women’).

 

That the current name acknowledges the decorative features of the temple is not an inappropriate situation. The minute and highly ornamented details are staggeringly elegant, and that the skill of the artisans has been salvaged, with their images still etched and furrowed into the pink and yellow tinged stone, is such a fortune. 

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Shiva's Bull, Nandi

Shiva's Bull, Nandi

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Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat: ‘city of temples’, the centrepiece and heart of Angkor, source of national pride, image on the Cambodian flag and ‘eighth wonder of the world’.

 

The largest religious building in the world was made by King Suryavarman II in the early 12th century and dedicated to Lord Vishnu. The 19th century French naturalist and explorer, Henri Mouhot, wrote that Angkor Wat was “erected by some ancient Michelangelo” and, in true romantic fashion, added that it “is grander than anything left to us by Greece and Rome.” He interestingly misdated the structure to the same era as ancient Rome, probably because it had lay somewhat neglected since the 16th century, and to this day has a sense of being more ancient than it is. 

The scale of Angkor Wat is staggering, with an outer wall measuring 1024m by 802m and the moat surrounding the temple grounds is 190m wide. It is this same enormous moat that has helped preserve Angkor throughout its years of relative neglect, as it prevented the jungle encroaching upon the temple too extensively.

 

Architecturally, the temple is symbolic of Mount Meru, which is the home of the gods in Hinduism. This ‘temple mountain’ was the dominant scheme for Angkorian temple architecture, and it was a style influenced by the temple design of the Indian subcontinent. The five central, pyramidal towers represent the five peaks of the mountain, the walls around the sanctuary symbolise the mountain ranges and the moat stands for the ocean. 

 

Decoratively, Angkor is considerably more conservative and depictions comparatively static to other temples at Angkor, but the utterly mindblowing scale of the structure, the immense and impenetrable series of walls, the grand moat and expansive greenspace, probably best experienced from a distance, is astounding. 

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Climbing back down the dizzyingly steep steps from the upper level

Climbing back down the dizzyingly steep steps from the upper level

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Angkor Thom and Bayon

Probably one of the most dominant figureheads of the Khmer empire’s history is Jayavarman VII, unusual for being a Buddhist rather than a Hindu king. This king is known for his defeat over the Chams (who sacked the Khmers in 1177), his compassionate reign as the ‘Buddharaja’ (‘Buddha King’), and a number of incredibly impressive and deservedly popular temples, namely the city of Angkor Thom with Bayon, Ta Phrom and Preah Khan. 

 

Angkor Thom is a massive complex of temples that served as the centre of Jayavarman’s capital, and at its centre is the famous Bayon. Bayon is best known for its multitude of stone faces, 216 of them, positioned all around the temple and gazing out in different directions, in some cases toward the jungle, and in some cases toward visitors. It has been concluded by some that the faces are representations of Jayavarman himself, and by others that they represent the bodhisattva of compassion, but the conflation of these two representations suits the mythology around Jayavarman as the compassionate ‘Buddha King’. The faces are both haunting and intriguing, and sometimes seem coy, cheeky, peaceful and aloof. But whichever way you are inclined to read the faces, they are undoubtedly stirring and curious. 

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Ta Phrom

Ta Phrom is known as the Tomb Raider temple, though actually the film was shot in a multitude of spots around Angkor. The temple has rather eerie qualities, and is perhaps most notable for the massive tree growing out of the temple’s centre, with its roots enveloping the stones as if it were a python squeezing its prey. The temple has been left half swallowed by the jungle, but interestingly been given infrastructural supports to keep it from vanishing entirely and maintain the ‘picturesque’ appearance of neglect.

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Baphuon and Preah Khan

View from the top of Baphuon temple

View from the top of Baphuon temple

The back wall of Baphuon, sculpted into the shape of a giant reclining Buddha. 

The back wall of Baphuon, sculpted into the shape of a giant reclining Buddha. 

Preah Khan was once a university as well as a temple, and its cruciform structure makes it an incredibly easy place to get lost in

Preah Khan was once a university as well as a temple, and its cruciform structure makes it an incredibly easy place to get lost in

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Some of the support structures used to keep the more dilapidated temples up.

Some of the support structures used to keep the more dilapidated temples up.

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P.S.

Whilst these photographs show an Angkor that's largely devoid of people, we feel it necessary to warn any would-be Angkor visitors that this is one of the most famous and visited places in the world. The few images below give a more accurate representation of the amount of fellow tourists you will have to wade through during your visit. 

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The crowd outside Angkor Wat to watch the sunrise.

The crowd outside Angkor Wat to watch the sunrise.

So how do you get a photo with no one in it then? You wait..... and wait. Below is an example of the longest we waited for an image, about 7 minutes from framing to (finally) getting a break in the crowd.

Waiting.....

Waiting.....

Finally! a nice deserted temple... How serene :P

Finally! a nice deserted temple... How serene :P

But don't let the crowds scare you off. The temples of Angkor are as monumental as historic sites get, demanding on your stamina but just as rewarding because of that. Each temple would be a centrepiece were it placed on its own, and allowing yourself time to enjoy each structure is important, not only for your own enjoyment, but also to ensure you appreciate that these marvels have been salvaged for the world to treasure.

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Si Phan Don (Four Thousand Islands)

The Mekong's archipelago, and your ultimate idyll.

It was all about the scenery, the lifestyle and the pace of the river. 

 

Photos by Ben Journee

Bungalows and restaurants line the river of Don Det (the main backpacker island).

Bungalows and restaurants line the river of Don Det (the main backpacker island).

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We weren't kayaking down these rapids (we walked instead).

We weren't kayaking down these rapids (we walked instead).

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Lunch (which we had on Cambodian soil).

Lunch (which we had on Cambodian soil).

Khon Phapheng Waterfall (said to be the largest waterfall by volume in South East Asia). Millions of litres of water thunder down the rapids and into Cambodia every second, and that raw power is incredibly tangible. 

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Right on the border between Laos and Cambodia where we caught a glimpse of the few Irrawaddy Dolphins in the area.

Right on the border between Laos and Cambodia where we caught a glimpse of the few Irrawaddy Dolphins in the area.

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Our last paddle across the river, right on sunset. Beautiful, but also touch and go...we all paddled our hearts out to make it back before it got dark!

Our last paddle across the river, right on sunset. Beautiful, but also touch and go...we all paddled our hearts out to make it back before it got dark!

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